| Enjoy the ancient cultural heritage in ultimate
tropical bliss of Ubud. Inofficially known as Asia's cultural
capital, Ubud is surely Bali's capital of art and culture. Landmarked
by the ancient royal palace, Ubud is home to thousands of telented
artist, represented by hundred of fine-art galleries. Perfect blend
of natural beauty with terracing ricefield, lush tropical forrest,
and winding river gorge with the well-kept heritage of Balinese
traditional living has inspired those talented artists for ceturies.
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About Ubud
Far removed from the drunken bikini scene in Kuta, Ubud can be described as a magical, wonderful, cultural centre -- if you're generous about coping with the burgeoning chaos in the centre, and the spread of workshops along the main roads in and out of town. Above all famous as a center of arts and crafts. Half (if not more) of the town and nearby villages seem to consist of artists' workshops and galleries, mostly retailing cheap reproductions for tourists. There are some remarkable architectural sights, artistic gems to be found, and a general feeling of wellbeing to be enjoyed thanks to the spirit, surroundings and climate.
While Ubud seems to outsiders like one small town, it is in fact 14 villages, each run by its own banjar (the land-owning married men's association; in effect the local government). It's clear that Ubud has been growing rapidly and some central parts are coping less well with the influx of tourists than in previous years (although the drop in visitors following 9/11 and the Kuta bombings slowed development). That said, most developments are sympathetic to the zeitgeist, if not designed specifically in the style of Balinese architecture. Growth is continuing due to the popularity of the Ubud area, but there are still terraced rice fields along the rivers and regular, quiet village life carries on relatively undisturbed just a stone's throw away. However, the encroachment of hotel rooms onto paddyfields, particularly near Monkey Forest and and along the Agung river is noticeable. Many hotels will promote themselves as being "in Ubud" when they are more likely to actually be located in one of the surrounding villages that make up the greater Ubud.
Due to its location 600 meters above sea level Ubud enjoys somewhat cooler temperatures than the coast (bring a pullover for the evening), although the midday sun can still be scorching.
Orientation
Orienting yourself in Ubud is fairly straightforward. The town sprawls around for several kilometers in all directions, wth all of the small villages within a 5km radius of the central market being loosely refered to as "Ubud." If you choose a reasonably central place to stay it's easy enough to walk about on foot.
Central Ubud has three main streets, Jl. Raya Ubud (the "Main Road" of Ubud), Jl. Monkey Forest and Jl. Hanoman. At the intersection of Jl. Raya and Jl. Monkey Forest is the Ubud Market, the Ubud Palace and the main bemo stop. Jl. Monkey Forest, from the market, south to the Monkey Forest itself is the most built up in the area, and home to a wide array of accommodation, art galleries, cafes, restaurants and cafes, and essential services (schools, sports field, pharmacies, travel agents, etc). Jl. Hanoman, which runs parallel to Jl. Monkey Forest, is a bit quieter and makes for more pleasant walking.
To the immediate west and northwest are the villages of Campuhan and Kedewatan, home to some of the most upmarket hotels in the area with views over the Agung River valley. Directly to the south, past Monkey Forest and still within a half hour walk of the central market is Padang Tegal, which then morphs into the southern villages of Nyuh Kuning, and Pengosek (about 3kms from central Ubud). Directly to the east is the village of Peliatan, and then Teges, home of the Goa Gajah elephant cave.
Places of Interest
Museum Rudana, Jl. Cok Rai Pudak 44, Peliatan, Ubud, Bali 80571
Museum Rudana or Rudana Art Museum was built in Ubud, Bali, under the idealism of its founder, Nyoman Rudana, where art is universal, and as the result, contributed to the harmonious process between men and God (parahyangan ), men and their fellow human beings (pawongan), and men with nature (palemahan). It is reflected in the concept of Bali philosophy Tri Hita Karana, where art has a great contribution in spreading world peace, prosperity and brotherhood amongst mankind. Humanism concept of Rudana Art Museum is the main philosophy of Nyoman Rudana in collecting paintings in the museum.
Museum Puri Lukisan (Museum of Fine Arts), Jl. Raya Ubud (spot the sign and cross the bridge to enter). Three buildings showcasing traditional and modern Balinese art. The displays are musty and English labeling is a little spotty, but some of the works, particularly the carvings, are quite amazing. Entrance Rp 20,000.
Monkey Forest, south end of Jl. Monkey Forest. A forest full of ravenous monkeys, so don't bring any food or risk bites and rabies injections. Stroll through to find Pura Dalem Agung Padangtegal, a Temple of the Dead.
Botanic Garden, Kutuh Kaja. The recently opened Botanic Garden is a wonderful way to spend a few hours walking around and exploring the valley that it fills. It is best to go in the morning and avoid the afternoon heat.
Seniwati Gallery of Art by Women, Jalan Sriwedari 2B, Banjar Taman, Ubud. The Seniwati Gallery features art by women; "Seni" is Indonesian for "art" and "Wati" means "women".
Goa Gajah (Elephant Cave), 3 km east from Ubud. A popular little excursion from Ubud, the centerpiece here is a cave, whose entrance is an ornately carved demon's mouth. Inside are some fragmentary lingam and yoni (phallus and vagina) statues, as well as a statue of Ganesha. Statues stand guard around pools near the entrance and a little path leads to a waterfall, rice fields and some Buddhist stupa fragments.
Gunung Kawi (Poet Mountain), Tampaksiring, 18 km northeast from Ubud. Entrance fee is 6000 IDR, sarong is rented for free. Dating from the 11th century, this is presumed to be the burial complex of King Anak Wungsu and his many wives. Reached by climbing down 371 steps, the location at the bottom of a steep valley lined with paddy fields is stunning. The smaller complex on the south side of the river is presumed to be for the king's wives, while the larger complex is thought to be for the King himself and perhaps his concubines. You must take off your shoes before entering into the central pura complex. About one km downstream there are further tomb cloisters. On the way back up, take a break at Cafe Kawi, which has cold drinks (Rp. 10000 up) and fresh breezes (free).
Tirta Empul, Tampaksiring, 20 km northeast from Ubud. One of the holiest temples on Bali, built around hot springs that now bubble eerily in the central courtyard. Balinese themselves come here to bathe and purify themselves physically and spiritually, and during Galungan the sacred barong masks are bathed here. The complex dates to 960, but the present buildings are all modern reconstructions.
source: wikitravel.org |
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Ubud Restaurants
Batan Waru: Under the Waru Trees!
Batan Waru has always been one of my favourite breakfast spots in Ubud. Their Shitake Eggs [scrambled eggs imbedded with slivers of shitake mushrooms], wholewheat toast and great coffee have started many a Bali day for me over the past few years. A perfect Eggs Benedict [unusual for Bali] is another alternative that always pleases. A chance brunch whilst entertaining overseas visitors opened my eyes to their main menu. Unlike sister restaurant, teraZo, which is very International in its cuisine, Batan Waru specializes in Indonesian fare. Great dishes at reasonable prices!
Bebek Bengil 1: Those Ducks are Dirty!
I guess that there is a story behind most restaurant names in Bali. Whether they be true or false, who cares? The naming of Ubud’s Bebek Bengil is stranger than most. Built 12 years ago, when the village of Tegal, at Ubud’s southern end, was nothing more than rice paddi’s, the restaurant was almost finished when it was invaded by a flock of ducks, bored with chasing worms in the water and mud of the adjoining paddies. The mess they made on that early morning invasion gave birth to the name, Bebek Bengil [Dirty Duck], and a restaurant that seems to have become an Ubud institution!
Barberkyu: More than Just a Barbecue!
Bali has many restaurants that offer what I call a ‘Tourist Menu’. By that I mean one that covers many different cuisines, obviously trying to find ’something for everyone’. Sadly, most fail and all the offerings finish up as a local version of everything, almost unrecognizable from what was originally attempted, at least in taste.
Ary’s Warung: Ary’s Grows Up!
Ary’s Warung, in Ubud, has always been an above average restaurant. Now, since a major redesign and menu upgrade, it has become an exceptional one. The lower level is dominated by a very stylish bar setting, with minimal dining areas and what there is mainly used for luncheons. Upstairs is a spacious room, an open tree-lined veranda, which seems to catch whatever cooling breezes are present at the time.
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Content for Ubud Restaurants section is courtesy of balieats.com. For more comprehensive review of Bali's culinary excellence - covering restaurants in all areas of Bali - please visit the website. |